Fern Canyon Redwood National Park

If you like the idea of exploring areas that seem like lost worlds, you will truly enjoy Fern Canyon in Prairie Creek Redwoods state park (CA) which is part of Redwood National Park. While you definitely should take some time to enjoy Gold Bluffs Beach (since many will ignore it), that doesn’t mean that you want to miss Fern Canyon which is about another 2 miles down the road. An informational sign at the trailhead next to the parking lot gives the following description of Fern Canyon:

Millions of years ago, a retreating sea left these coastal bluffs behind. Waters draining to the ocean sculpted the rocky formations into sheer canyon walls. Some of the exquisite ferns now clinging to the steep, shadowy cliffs are ancient species whose ancestry can be traced back 325 million years.

The canyon is now shrouded with lush five-fingered ferns, dark green sword ferns, and delicate lady ferns. Scouring winter floods periodically rush through the canyon, sweeping debris from its floor. Spruce and red alder saplings often survive for a few years on small terrace ledges, but they rarely reach maturity before falling off or being swept away.

Seeping water supply year-round dampness for the dense foliage and provide habitat for a diverse mix of moisture loving creatures such as salamanders, frogs and dippers. Several perennial waterfalls cascade from the canyon rim, adding to the cool moist canyon microclimate.

It’s less than a quarter of a mile to the canyon entrance, and you’ll immediately see that you’re in for a wonderful journey as light makes its way sporadically through the thick foliage:

Looking out the Fern Canyon entrance at Redwood National Park

You’ll also realise that it’s worthwhile packing an extra layer (especially if you do the hike in the morning) since the temperature drops a few degrees once you get into the canyon. Apparently the rangers set up wood bridge crossings in the summer so that you don’t get wet from the river as you make your way up the canyon, but those were not in place when I went in mid June. Other hikers had created makeshift crossings with the fallen trees and wood debris in the canyon which meant that it’s possible to survive the canyon hike without getting your shoes wet if you’re very careful. I have pretty decent balance, but there were a few times I almost found my feet in the water (although I did manage to come out dry). It’s definitely a good idea to pack an extra pair of shoes and socks just in case.

Once you enter the canyon, the walls narrow and turn green as ferns hang from top to bottom:

Fern Canyon walls covered in ferns at Redwood National Park

Probably my favorite part of Fern Canyon were the waterfalls. These came over the side of the canyon, dripping their way down a moss covered path more than “falling” to the canyon bottom. When the sunlight hit these, the drops in the moss would sparkly like a thousand diamonds which was an amazing sight. My photo doesn’t even come close to doing it justice:

A moss covered waterfall into Fern Canyon at Redwood National Park

Fern Canyon is part of a 7 mile loop trail (which includes Fern Canyon, Friendship Ridge, West Ridge and Coastal Trail) which takes about 4 hours to hike, but you can easily hike just Fern Canyon up and back if your time is limited. Fern Canyon itself isn’t that long (about half a mile), but it does take time since you’re constantly stopping to take photos, admire the scenery and crawling across logs to stay dry. This is definitely a must see stop if you visit Redwood National Park. For those interested, here are more Fern Canyon photos

Agate Beach Patrick’s Point State Park California

Even if you don’t enjoy hiking or walking along the beach, it’s worth your time to drive to the Agate Beach parking area at Patrick’s Point State Park (CA) because of the wonderful view. There is no hiking involved — simply get out of your car, walk to the north end of the parking lot (or sit down at a picnic table) and enjoy the view:

Agate beach at Patrick's Point State Park in California

For those that do enjoy hiking, there is a foliage filled trail that takes you down to the beach. Once you reach the bottom, you immediately see a rock filled river which runs down onto the beach and into the ocean. These stones get pounded by the surf and then return to the beach leaving pockets of stones along the sandy beach. There were a number of people sifting through the pebbles and rocks looking for favorites:

pebbles scattered on the beach at Agate Beach in Patrick's Point State Park California

The beach is actually quite expansive and a wonderful place to take a long stroll. It doesn’t take long before you are virtually alone, leaving the vast majority of visitors gathered in the area near the river. For anyone that enjoys searching for interesting rocks that the ocean washes ashore, you won’t want to miss this beach.

Gold Bluffs Beach Redwood National Park

When you think of Redwood National Park, the first image that comes to mind usually isn’t the beach. That’s a shame because there are some beautiful beaches which are part of the Redwood National and State Parks. Gold Bluffs Beach is one of these.

Located in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (CA), you need to turn off highway 101 onto Davison Road at Elk Meadow (There is a large sign for Elk Meadow overlook — when you reach the Elk Meadow overlook, continue straight onto the dirt road). Davison Road winds its way through beautiful redwood groves until it reaches the sea. Once you hit the shoreline, you leave Redwood National Park and enter Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (there is a state park fee to enter). While most people head to Fern Canyon and bypass the beach all together, this is a mistake. The beach is vast with very few people (because they are all heading to see the redwoods) making it a perfect place to take a long stroll in near solitude:

Gold Bluffs Beach in Redwood National Park

For those who don’t feel like walking, there are plenty of ocean-worn rocks littering the beach to look at and admire:

Rocks in sand at Gold Bluffs Beach in Redwoods National Park

And for those with a little bit of ambition, the rocks are perfectly shaped to have some fun stacking them:

Stacking rocks at Gold Bluffs Beach Prairie Creek Redwoods state park California

While the redwoods are obviously the main attraction at Redwood National Park, try to take some time to visit the beach as well. You won’t regret it.

Trinidad State Beach California

While Trinidad state beach is a bit difficult to find (once you exit and head into the town of Trinidad, the main road will first curve 90 degrees right and then a little later 90 degrees left — toward the coastline. Instead of following the main road and turning left, you want to make another right down a one lane road to find the entrance to Trinidad state beach). Once you reach the parking area, there are a lot of picnic tables and a wonderful view of the beach below. The many rock outcroppings in the ocean making them part of the California Coast National Monument:

The view overlooking the beach at Trinidad State beach in California

It is a about a quarter mile hike down to Trinidad state beach along a narrow dirt path.

beach level at Trinidad state beach in northern California

It was extremely windy while I was there making the view and picnic are much more comfortable than the beach (there were trees that blocked the wind up there), but I don’t know if that is a regular occurrence or not. It was a fun beach to explore with all the different rock outcroppings.

Wind Caves Mount Diablo California State Park

When you enter the Rock City area of Mount Diablo California state park, you can find a small parking lot towards the top that places your next to Wind Caves. This is an area where sandstone rock has been eroded away leaving large pocket holes in the stone:

Wind Caves at Mount Diablo California State Park

The Wind Caves at Mt. Diablo State Park

Although the name “Wind Caves” gives the impression that the wind has formed these hole ridden rocks, an information sign gives a better explanation of the process:

Erosion Creates Dramatic Rock Sculptures

Along the trail here in Rock City, you will see dramatic caves sculptured in the sandstone. Though commonly called “Wind Caves,” these cavities have a more complex origin.

These cavities began to form when the sandstone once buried far below the Earth’s surface was exposed in recent geological time during the uplift of Mt. Diablo. Rain, mixed with carbon dioxide from the air, formed weak acidic water that ran over and into the rock. It dissolved the calcite cement that acts as a “glue” holding the sand grains together. Each summer, heat drew water out of the rock and, over the centuries, evaporation left a hard carbonate crust on the surface.

Here and there, the crust cracked and fell away exposing the weakly cemented sandstone inside. The softer material eroded more quickly than the crust, leaving behind the cavities. This sculpturing process continues today.

These are fun to look at and explore (although they have unfortunately been covered in graffiti). One discovery that you will make is that plants have been able to eek out an existence in the most unlikely of places amount the sandstone formations:

Flowering plant growing out of Wind Caves at Mt. Diablo state park

For those not satisfied with seeing the formations from the bottom, it’s also possible to make it to the top using a series of footsteps that have been worn into the sandstone:

steps that lead to the top of Wind Caves at Mt. Diablo state park

It’s definitely a fun place to take photos and explore for an afternoon. For more information on how you can help protect and preserve this state park, you can get information at Save Mount Diablo or on their facebooke page

Tomales Bay California State Park

While driving to Tomales Bay California state park within Point Reyes National Seashore (there are also areas of Tomales Bay state park across Tomales Bay on highway 1) you will turn off Pierce Point Road and descend into the park. Tomales Bay isn’t part of Point Reyes and there is an entrance fee of $8.00 per vehicle to enter (or you can purchase a California State Park Pass)

The road is quite curvy and there really aren’t any places to park, but it can be worthwhile to try and find a spot (or decide to hike the road) as it provides some great photo opportunities. This includes seeing Tomales Bay with all the forest before it:

View from road going into Tomales Bay California state park

There’s also spectacular undergrowth below the trees if you take the time to explore a bit.

Trees and undergrowth Tomales Bay California State Park

Again, the road isn’t really made to do this and you definitely need to be very careful if you decide to do it, but there’s a good chance that you will be well rewarded with some interesting photos if you decide to do so.

California State Parks Closure List 2011

Due to budget cuts, the California State Parks system announced a plan to close 70 of its 278 parks. The first parks will start to be shuttered in September 2011 and all 70 slated California state parks should be completely shut down by July 2012. The following 70 California state parks are on the list to be closed:

Anderson Marsh State Historical Park
Annadel State Park
Antelope Valley Indian Museum
Austin Creek State Recreation Area
Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park
Benbow Lake State Recreation Area
Benicia Capitol State Historic Park
Benicia State Recreation Area
Bidwell Mansion State Historic Park
Bothe-Napa Valley State Park
Brannan Island State Recreation Area
California State Mining & Mineral Museum
Candlestick Point State Recreation Area
Castle Crags State Park
China Camp State Park
Colusa-Sacramento River State Recreation Area
Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park
Fort Humboldt State Historic Park
Fort Tejon State Historic Park
Garrapata State Park
George J. Hatfield State Recreation Area
Governor’s Mansion State Historic Park
Gray Whale Cove State Beach
Greenwood Creek State Beach
Grizzly Creek Redwoods State Park
Hendy Woods State Park
Henry W. Coe State Park
Jack London State Historic Park
Jug Handle State Reserve
Leland Stanford Mansion State Historic Park
Lime Kiln State Park
Los Encinos State Historic Park
Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park
Manchester State Park
McConnell State Recreation Area
McGrath State Beach
Mono Lake Tufa Reserve
Morro Strand State Beach
Moss Landing State Beach
Olompali State Historic Park
Palomar Mountain State Park
Petaluma Adobe State Historic Park
Picacho State Recreation Area
Pio Pico State Historic Park
Plumas Eureka State Park
Point Cabrillo Light Station
Portola Redwoods State Park
Providence Mountains State Recreation Area
Railtown 1897 State Historic Park
Russian Gulch State Park
Saddleback Butte State Park
Salton Sea State Recreation Area
Samuel P. Taylor State Park
San Pasqual Battlefield State Historic Park
Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park
Santa Susana Pass State Historic Park
Shasta State Historic Park
South Yuba River State Park
Standish-Hickey State Recreation Area
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park
Tomales Bay State Park
Tule Elk State Reserve
Turlock Lake State Recreation Area
Twin Lakes State Beach
Weaverville Joss House State Historic Park
Westport-Union Landing State Beach
William B Ide Adobe State Park
Woodson Bridge State Recreation Area
Zmudowski State Beach Park

If you live in California or are planning a visit to the state, you should definitely add as many of the above state parks to your visit list as possible. I will definitely be adding as many of these to my visit list this year. You can see where all the above California state parks are located here

Cinder Block Tree Emerald Bay State Park California

As you reach the bottom on Vikingsholm Trail and it begins to level off, there is a quite unusual sight — a cinder block tree to your left.

tree at Emerald Bay state park filled with cinder blocks

Cinder block tree at Emerald Bay CA

I’m not sure exactly what the purpose of this would be, but assume that it was a way to protect trees from further damage and rotting many years ago. When I visited, Emerald Bay visitors center was still closed for the winter season so there were no park rangers around I could ask. If anyone knows for sure why this was done, I would love to hear the explanation.

Vikingsholm Trail Emerald Bay State Park California

If you have the time, you definitely want to take the 1 mile hike down Vikingsholm Trail at Emerald Bay state park to the the water’s edge. While there won’t be any issues getting down the trail, you will eventually have to hike back up and the grade is fairly steep. You definitely need to be in decent shape to do it, but the rewards are well worth it.

As you begin to hike down Vikingsholm Trail, you will quickly get closer to Emerald Bay and see some wonderful views of Fannette Island:

View of Fannette Island in Emerald Bay from the Vikingsholm trail

The different colors within Emerald Bay will also begin to show themselves:

The wonderful colors of Emerald Bay

The view of Emerald Bay isn’t the only thing to keep your eyes glued to on your way down. There are a number of birds and small animals to see including a beautiful blue jay that is quite common:

Blue jay seen on the Vikingsholm trail to Emerald Bay

When you reach the bottom of Vikingsholm Trail, you will be next to the rock cliffs that you were moments before standing upon and you will quickly realize how far you descended in that mile walk down.

View of the rocks toward the bottom of Vikingsholm trail looking up at the view point

Once at the bottom of Vikingsholm Trail, you will be at the visitors center. From there you have the entire beach at Emerald Bay to explore as well as some other hikes to take if you are up to it.

Vikingsholm View Emerald Bay State Park California

One of the main reasons that you want to drive California highway 89 around Lake Tahoe is so that you get a chance to see Emerald Bay state park. There are two main lookouts over Emerald Bay: Vikingsholm and Inspiration Point. While there is a lot more to do than look at the Emerald Bay view from the Vikingsholm stop, if you are in a rush with little time, the Vikingsholm view stop is one you’ll definitely want to make at all cost. A short 2 minute walk up some rocks will give you an outstanding view of Emerald Bay making it accessible to virtually everyone:

Emerald Bay at Lake Tahoe from Vikingsholm

with Fannette Island in the middle:

Fannette Island in Emerald Bay State Park

You will also be able to see a portion on Eagle Falls off to the right side:

Eagle Falls at Emerald Bay state park

While this is the absolute bare minimum you should do at Emerald Bay, Vikingsholm also has a trail head for the 1 mile hike down to the shore of Emerald Bay